Jeff,

They have pix of a few Tee bolts on page 3105 of the McMaster Carr’s web catalog if U - R interested in seeing what they look like

Bigs Live On

Jeff,

Seeing Mr. Hall started this topic on the Tee nuts & bolts & has executed this task. I’ve used the Tee nuts before (applying ice cleats ) but not in the way John H. has so I think it best he describe the method & so forth. Seems like a fresh idea on how to secure the cockpit decks down if one was to use a soft material like wood or a plastic composition.


Norm,

Bigs Live On

Yes! I like the idea.

Thanks to all,

Jeff

Sure he did, Norm!

What is a Tee bolt again..

Jeff

Hey Norm,
Just because the Lions didn't make the playoff, you don't have to resort to name calling.

All,

Thanks for the advice about the deck/ It sounds like y'all really favour the alluminum decking but I have to say the wood looks REALLY good... I think I'm sticking with the wood option and keeping her in a covered slip. My concern was the slippery factor because it'd be nice if my guests didn't have to worry about busting their ass every time they climb out of the lake (Lake Lanier Ga- 15' low). I'm not sure i completely understand the way to countersink the drains but i've got some good manuals to reference.

Thanks again floating bretheran!
Brooks

Brooks,
I'm not sure i completely understand the way to countersink the drains:

Two ways to do this if U have a wood bore a tad large than the outer Dai. Of the drain lip bore down slightly deeper than the thickness of the leaving enough room for a couple coats of epoxy to seal the counter sunk area most don’t have this type or size bore laying around unless they’re
avid wood workers. The next way is to run on down to Harbor Freight, they sell hole that size fairly cheap than using the above bore down to desired depth than bore hole that the body of drain will fit in chisel out to the outer ring now epoxy as above & Walla U a unobstructed by the drain lip to the scupper

Norm,

Bigs Live On

I'm not sure i completely understand the way to countersink the drains


If you use a hole saw, mark the depth on the outside so you don't drill too deep. ( tape around the hole saw or a mark with a Magic Marker )
Drill the pilot hole ( 1/4" center hole ) then the outside bigger counterbore. Then the smaller diameter inside hole for the drain. If you allready have the smaller hole for the drain and don't have the center hole to guide the saw, the trick is to either clamp some scrap blocking behind the hole and drill a pilot hole through it to guide you or put the larger hole saw on the arbor and then the smaller diameter hole saw inside on the arbor. The smaller one will stick down past the bigger one and keep you centered in the hole.--Ed

Ed,

Great idea on the doubling up of the hole saws gunna try it this year & see if I can get them drains down below the surface of the of the nautalux What a stupid mistake when I redecked
AnyWho 3 Brewski’s for Ed, for that helpful tip See old dogs can be taught new tricks

Norm,

Bigs Live On

This was from Sickleave Bob:
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Marinette Aluminum Boat Forum » Lucky Penny » Inbox » Re: Aft Deck

Re: Aft Deck
sickleave Posted: Friday, January 30, 2009 8:24:01 PM

No plywood, but I was told not to go over 1 foot unsuported.
I put aluminum angle in for cross supports. On engine hatches I used a 3/4 plastic backing (ply wood replacement) and cedar stringers also. Flooring in 5 or 5 1/2 tongue and grove with 2 black plastic stripes in it. They loan you an electric weld gun for blastic and you weld the boards together with a black stripe. I had to shave the boards a hair inbetween so plastic layed perfect and in most cases you can not tell where boards go together. I would love to do cabin some day. If I did cabin I might use marine plywood and screw down planks at seams like a hard wood floor. I also used plastic backing under ring hatches in back. I have a fresh water pump through hull. Pump is piped up on each side of rear deck. I cut 2 section of plastic pipe and my section of strech hose fits in each. I had Boat top sewn to cover plastic pipes. switch for pump is on wall. I have like 14 salty dog rod holder on railing and tubing and some stand up rod holder that are usually used for landing nets.
There are 2 planer board reels mounted on railing at rear of hard top
the line from these goes forward to planer board mast and out.
You can operate reels from rear deck but line goes out at fron of boat so set lines are not too much to the rear. I have always said my boat is a fishing boat First and a Marinette second.
Make no mistake it was a lot of work. This is last post I am going to Mexico for a week. I will catch up on any posts when I get back.
All oval aluminum hatches were cut and welded to fit between stringers. There is no place I can not get to for Maintenance. In side panels beside engines I was able to fit 3 plastic water jerry cans on each side I played with Water (distilled water) injection for 2 years. Trouble with water injection is you have to adjust timing for good burn. Only problem is if water injection goes out you better reset timing or you will damage engines (I had timing up to 15 degrees with no knock). I wonder if they make an advance that I could adjust and turn on and off. I would love to put an HHO on demand booster on engines. I could put booster on deck and pipe in to carbs (just thinking out load). Going to Sunny Mexico for a week of Sun and fishing. Got to go and finish packing, I will give a fishing report when I get back or may post from a computer at hotel we will see.I have don a lot to my boat any thing I needed help with I have a Marine Mechanic that will hrelp we and show me the trick of the trade. SICK LEAVE, Bob

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