I have been using Easypoxy for years and I like it.

For filler I have always used WEST system epoxy and phenolic microballoons, which can be gotten in bulk or mixed with fiber in the form of WEST Low Density Filler. I used to buy the balloons industrially because I used so many.

The Gougeons provide more application information with their products than anybody.

I like the epoxy/microballoons mix because it can be made to the thickness you need, can be carved with a dragon's tongue when still soft, and sands nicely when fully hard. I have always used a sanding block to level it, and have a number of them with different radii for inside fill.

I like to roll High Build Epoxy Primer over the prepped metal, and where that doesn't fill, I use the filler.

The trick with easypoxy is to get the first coat on really thin, thin enough to see through if you can. I use a fine roller, and have never found the need to tip. I suspect that if you have enough to tip, you are putting on too much easypoxy. Just keep rolling until all the bubbles are gone. Three thin coats are really needed, use one of those foam blocks to break the surface between coats, unless the timing is perfect. A little thinner will make it easier to get a good shine on the top coat.

Be sure to read all the stuff from Pettit.

I get results with Easypoxy that are far beyond my skill.

Bill ,I would like to see what the Durabac looks like . do you like it? any photos you can share? Wayne

On fairing and filling....The easy way to do this, considering the etch and seal nature of aluminum, is to barrier coat the surface first. Wait 'til it's cured, then sand (to remove the amine blush) and add thhe filler. Long as you don't sand all the way down to the bare metal, you can 'play' with the filler until you et a level, smooth surface. Did this on the pitted bottom of mine and it was much easier; and none of the filler has come off.

Jeff

I've had good luck with the 3M marine filler/fairing compound. Dries fast and sand out pretty easy too. The original "bondo" was junk - cut it out with a sharp knife.

I am preparing my topsides for paint right now. I have a cracked and pinholed original finish. I have been over much of the deck area twice with 80 grit and once with 120 grit. In spite of all the sanding I have broken through the primer coat in very few places. I am not interested in starting with bare metal. What paint is left is really on there. My paint system was chosen because it binds well to the original paint.

So what about the cracks and pinholes? I considered introducing a high build primer. But I experimented and found that my primer will flow out very smooth on the horizontal surfaces. Topcoats do not fill that well. They need a smooth surface to shine. I bought Evercoat Easy Sand finishing and blending putty to butter the surfaces my primer won't fill. It works well if you can get it on in time. You are supposed to have 5-6 minutes but my first batch cooked off immediately. I had to cut way back on the hardener. It is nice that you can start finish sanding in 20 minutes. I used a DA with 120 which worked fine for my purposes even though the video shows hand block sanding with 180.

What about replacing the original filler or areas you need more strength.? I did use a knife to cut back to "sound" filler. Then I used West Water Tite Epoxy filler to replace it. It is very much harder to shape, sand and feather than the Evercoat and it needs overnite to cure. I did find that the wet finger method works to round out inside corners. That was a breakthrough. I don't like to knock epoxy just because it always gives me trouble. But I never get the results I expect in a reasonable time.

After I finish with my 32' I have a 28' that needs paint. It doesn't have a flybridge to worry about so it will be an easier job. I will select a paint system suitable to the task. It has multiple coats of who knows what and needs a bottom job. This time I want a paint I can roll on. Less time putting on tape and cover.

The trim enamel they gave me was great. It can be rolled, brushed or sprayed on smoothly. It covers in one coat and dries quickly. Maybe I'll just ask for two gallons of white trim enamel next time.

I repainted the hull and topsides every year on a 38 Ft patrol boat. It was steel but the finish was basicly the same as our M's. Fairing compound over welds etc and most the hull then primer and paint.

Assuming your foundation is solid it is just a matter of using a surfacing compound. (Interlux makes some easy to use stuff) It trowles on like cake frosting. Dries in less than a day and then primme and stwo coats of topcoat.

If you roll and "Tip" out with a badger hair brush you will be surprised on how well the interux paints level out.

Trick is apply when temps are below 80 degrees with low humidity. If too hot out it is difficult to maintain a "wet" edge.

Bugs are also a real problem this time of year.

dave