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Rank: Top Rank Aluminum Star
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Location: White Lake MI. or on my BOAT
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To All, Like I’ve always said if it been done to a  Someone on this site has done it on this site My question is has anyone out there put a second shore power hook up on their boat ? My plan is to put one up front where the bow seat is at so I don’t have to have such a long shore power cord, that way no matter which way I put in at dock side all I’ll need is a 25'er of course just as long as I don’t bring her in side ways  Going to run some #10 AGW marine wire from bow connection to wiring hook up behind helm will I need some sort of breaker or will I be able to hook directly to present post seeing there will only be one shore power cord as not to screw up & hook two up at the same.  As most of U’s have gather by now my electrical skills are some what challenged. ( Jeff, I don’t wantta hear anything about being challenged in other areas also cause I’ve left the door wide open for U on this one )-:  Any suggestions or ideas are welcome Thanks in advance so if I don’t get a chance to get back at U it’ll be thar’s a lot prep work that’ll have to be done in the next 4/5 days Ya All have a GREAT & SAFE boating season an as for U Steve U beat me to the draw again Norm, BIG s Live On 
Keep your hooks wet & your Butts dry also make sure your whistle stays wet
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Please Register : New members may not post until approved. An email is sent after approval. We do this to reduce those who use these forums for spamming.
This forum is for Marinette Owners and other aluminum boat boaters who wish to share boating information. Aluminum Roamer owners are also welcome. (Do not post content you do not have the right to post and mass (robots) posters are unwelcome. We also have a marine electronics page and lots of Chrysler Engine info. State by what permission, you copy content and accredit properly.) The site is now fixed with some more Chrysler information. I will try to post more information soon. We have space for pictures on the new location. Use shinkpic to autochange size http://www.onthegosoft.com/sp_download.htm
Great Sites - http://www.marinette.com Marinette Company
http://www.geocities.com/dougmrose/ Wiring Marinette
http://fastjeff.tripod.com/ Repair Tricks and Techniques for Marinettes
http://www.greatlakesmarinetteclub.com/
PLEASE post in the appropriate folder. Please, do not post your actual email address in publicly readable websites.
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Rank: Top Rank Aluminum Star
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Why, I wouldn't think of inserting a zinger here, Norm!
Agreed on the long power cord. Since we bow in, the cord is tie wrapped to the railing posts all the way to the bow--ugly but necessary. Gotta be a better solution, but I'd hate like hell to run an AC cable from the Vee berth area all the way to the panel. Besides, I'd have to buy a new outlet and...
"There is another class of coloured people who make a business of keeping the troubles, the wrongs, and the hardships of the Negro race before the public. Having learned that they are able to make a living out of their troubles, they have grown into the settled habit of advertising their wrongs -- partly because they want sympathy and partly because it pays. Some of these people do not want the Negro to lose his grievances, because they do not want to lose their jobs." Booker T. Washington
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the only thing ide pay extra attention too is the fact that you will have an energized connection point unless you install a breaker of some sort between the new connection point and where you tie it into the system............ thats a great idea i think though.....im actually thinking of doing the same thing myself, and then carrying just 2 short 25 footers for hookup.....
http://theboaters.com/boats/Powerboat/Classic_/_Antique/Marinette/express/1964/MHYZHENOne more busted knuckle and i'll have a complete set !
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Worse than running the new wire to the panel is what to do with the unused shore power connector. If you just run the bow connector into the panel, then the cockpit plug will be live when the bow is plugged in. This is bad because the cockpit plug is a plug -- it has exposed contacts. Even if it has a screw-on cover (most do) there is a hazard there, and no surveyor worth his salt would approve it. The exposed prongs always go downstream from the power source.
You could install a DPDT switch somewhere that would select which plug, cockpit or bow, connects to the panel. Or, you could run the wire from the bow plug to a socket next to the plug in the cockpit. To use the forward plug, just connect a short jumper between the socket and plug in the cockpit. To use the cockpit plug, remove the jumper and plug right in.
All things considered, the tie-wraps along the rail aren't sounding so bad....
"Anyone who has ever chanted "drill, baby, drill" please report to the bayou for cleanup duty..."
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Rank: Top Rank Aluminum Star
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Installed dual hook up on Sorrydog for stern and bow docking. Used standard breaker box and built alum arm guard over breakers so only one set can be turned on at a time. Kinda looks like a pair of scissors with on end fixed with bolt to panel housing or an X over the breakers. Wiring then goes to a 3 pole breaker front and rear at the dock plug. 3 pole breakers as I am 50 amp. Breakers inside are standard sqaure D. Sorrydog.
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Dog made a "Transfer Switch", like what your genset uses. It's an absolute MUST, for the reasons Doug mentioned.
You can find a genset transfer switch to do the same thing. Very unlikely that you would be able to find a DPDT swich cheap and strong enough to handle start-up loads, which often exceed running amps (30) by up to 6x - That's 180 amps on motor loads. Obviously, you don't have 30a of motors and compressors, but you do need to have a margin of error.
Be careful in these situations.
John
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Location: Middle River
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What you are looking for is called a source selector switch. They are designed so only one source can be connected at a time. Anything less is illegal and dangerous. West marine has them for less than $100 for selecting between two 30 amp sources.
John
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Hell for the price and the hassle I would just use the cord I have and be done with it. Put the 100.00 in the tank or the cooler.
Mike
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I have the 2DPDT for shore for aft/fore hookup and a separate one for gen(both by ONAN). I only use the front connector since I have it for air/conditioning.
weird setup, but works OK.
Unzinced ships sink at slips.
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Rank: Top Rank Aluminum Star
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Joined: 12/4/2007
Posts: 1,311
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Location: White Lake MI. or on my BOAT
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To All, Thanks for your valued opinions & suggestions. So all I’d need is one of those switches & things would be Kosher  Looked it up in W/M cat. knowing they are the most pricey but I’ll have time to look around & find it for less.  Again I value this site opinions Even old SorryDog, bet he’s got one of them laying around some where & could send it for shipping & handling oh rats the handling would be around $150 + shipping Again Thanks this is truly a valued site Norm, BIG s Live On
Keep your hooks wet & your Butts dry also make sure your whistle stays wet
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Rank: Top Rank Aluminum Star
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Location: JACKSONVILLE,FL.
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Hey, I might have one!! Its a generator transfer switch, left over from my boat. Its mounted in the old panel, I'll check the shed. If I have it tis yours. Sorrydog
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Rank: Top Rank Aluminum Star
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Location: Central Florida and the DC area
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John, you greatly underestimate my ability to find good cheap surplus stuff. If you are not going to move the switch under load, the surge is not really a problem. I would consider a DPDT toggle switch like http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=3dVl2kqwsox9Y9H8TKiHig%3d%3d for around $22. I am using all toggle switches because they have a period look that I like. Those of you with newer boats would probably prefer something modren. I like SD2's idea of using two breakers with a lockout. I have seen this a lot on big boats.
"Anyone who has ever chanted "drill, baby, drill" please report to the bayou for cleanup duty..."
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Rank: Top Rank Aluminum Star
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Joined: 12/4/2007
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Location: White Lake MI. or on my BOAT
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SorryDog, I love it when people use them four letter words like FREE, HAVE, U the Man ole Buddy. PM me the shipping if U find it. Well gotta run near Beer 30 sum place see ifin I can win some $$$ at euchre tonightWell gotta run near Beer 30 sum place see ifin I can win some $$$ at euchre tonight  BIG s Live On
Keep your hooks wet & your Butts dry also make sure your whistle stays wet
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Rank: Top Rank Aluminum Star
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Location: Cleveland, OH
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[quote=dougrose] If you are not going to move the switch under load, the surge is not really a problem. I would consider a DPDT toggle switch like http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=3dVl2kqwsox9Y9H8TKiHig%3d%3d for around $22. I don't underestimate you ;) Those look like nice switches at a good price. I'd want to know the HP rating of them, though. It's not you, flipping the switches, it's the guests and gremlins that worry me :) As an electrician, I always have to take common sense out of the equation. Common sense tells me that people shouldn't put their hands in an open, energized panel, but some people are just slow learners :) That's why I close them up or lock them out... A breaker is designed to take hits many times what their ratings are. Think about what dead shorts generate, in terms of amps (thousands of amps). Switches, not so much. That's why we use starters on motors - fast acting, heavy contacts. A 15a (a little over 1HP @ 120v) compressor motor starts at up to 6x its RLA - that could be 90a. I have A/C, central vac, water heater, ice maker, and a 20a inverter / charger, as my heaviest loads. Obviously, they are on 2 separate circuits, but they often approach 30a on each leg. Hate to flip that switch then.
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Rank: Top Rank Aluminum Star
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Location: Central Florida and the DC area
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Nothing like giving someone advice on wiring and then finding out that he is an electrician. Sort of like explaining to the cardiologist what all those little squiggles mean. The switches in the link are only motor rated for 1 hp, so no inductive loads over 750 watts. I actually prefer to use sealed military togges per MIL-S-3950 because I am so familiar with them. They cost a little more and can be found at http://www.alliedelec.com/Search/SearchResults.asp?N=0&Ntt=mil+toggle+switch+dpdt&Ntk=Primary&i=0&sid=480936004D15E17F but this series is only rated to 20 amps. I plan to use a four-position power selector: OFF, 110V, 220V, and INVERTER. My isolation transformer has separate windings that allow use on 110 or 220 -- who knows, maybe someday I'll get someplace that uses the higher voltage.... At any rate, I plan to buy http://surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2008041907594971&item=11-2015&catname=electric and cut it down to the three decks that I actually need. It is an excellent quality switch at a cheap price and you might want to look at it. I don't want an automatic transfer switch because I don't want too much stuff happening on its own. I prefer to select INVERTER and then turn the thing on myself.
"Anyone who has ever chanted "drill, baby, drill" please report to the bayou for cleanup duty..."
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Rank: Top Rank Aluminum Star
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2nd link is no good - can you post it again?
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Rank: Top Rank Aluminum Star
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Posts: 916
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Location: Central Florida and the DC area
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Sure, it's http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2008041922503980&item=11-2015&catname=electricMy bad. My browser is set to add "www." or ".com" to the URL if they are left off, so when I checked the link, the fact that I had left off the "www." didn't keep it from loading.
"Anyone who has ever chanted "drill, baby, drill" please report to the bayou for cleanup duty..."
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