John Althouse has the correct breakers, however the are not cheap. If you get # wrong on one breaker will probably cost more than you save by going direct.

Roger

If you want to replace the original thermal breakers with the same thing, you can get them at http://www.alliedelec.co...mp;sid=480A87802B56E17F for $21.

Personally, I don't like the thermal breakers, and in fact I have given away the ones I remove.

The Snapak breakers are pretty good, their slow curve approximates what you would get with a purely thermal breaker and is excellent for protecting the wire from overload without nuisance tripping.

Marinette used all 20A slow breakers to protect the wiring from shorts. Note that most electronics has its own fuze, which should provide proper protection. For a known load such as the reefer, you can always use a lower value breaker or faster breaker for protection, but this complicates things. If you have a water pump that draws 7A, you could use a 10A breaker. The no-delay breakers are usually used in special applications. The fast breakers are hard to find in stock.

The only thing that I don't like about the snapak toggles is the plastic handle. The metal toggles in the AP-MIL series I use look "period" for an older boat.

Don't worry about all those options, nobody stocks them all anyway. What you want is paddle handle, black, 20A, single pole series, slow, AC/DC (so you can use them anywhere) nickel knurled nut, vertical (toggle goes up and down instead of sideways).

You can get these (T11-2-20.0A-01-11AL-V) at Newark.com Stock No. 90C0671 for $15.60.

I looked at www.pocosales.com but they do not post prices. Sounds like they might be a better deal than the usual industrial sources like Newark. They have a really nice parts selector.

Note: 2-pole breakers are preferred for AC, but Marinette didn't wire it that way....


Doug,

One of the breaker U gave to Bill in turn he gave to me & that’s what’s replaced the jury rigged
switch I was using till I could find the right one Thanks Doug & Bill

Norm,

BIG s Live On

When I make it back to the boat, one of my first projects will be to rewire the AC panel - one of the breakers has died anyway and I think I have all the parts needed. So I'll have seven more...

You could probably solder it if your careful.

You will need,
steady hands
a cleaner/flux that is acceptable for electrical contacts
rosin core solder
a real soldering iron, not the Radio Shack crap that looses its heat when it makes contact. I ordered this one from www.Tessco.com.

The trick is high heat for short bursts or you will melt something. If the iron is not hot enough you will find yourself holding the tip on the part for a longtime and ultimately heating up the surrounding areas and melting things.

Be clean, hot and fast and you should be good.

If the solder wont adhere to the metal it probably needs more cleaning. If the solder wont turn to liquid, not enough heat.

I'm will to try ordering more switches from Pocosales but they never got back to me last year. Kind of irks me.

-Karl

"...I cut the copper foil on the back of one gauge that connects the little gauge lamps..."

---

Thnx for posting that .. so did I, a long time ago and thnx to Karl for the advice. When I get unlazy and brave, I will make my repair. I would take a piece of phone wire and hammer it flatter to give me more grab surface (but that's just me) for soldering.

You could "paint" the repair with conductive paint. They make it for repairs of electric defroster grids on autos. I used it years ago to fix our rear window defroster. I "accidently" scraped and cut the foil. They also sell it for model train layouts.

http://cgi.ebay.com/COND...idZp1638Q2em118Q2el1247

http://www.frostfighter.com/prt2100.htm

Yoop,

Did I give the wrong breaker part number in the earlier thread?

I'm about to order about 5 or 6 and want to make sure I have the correct part number. The numbers I got were from going through Poco sales website last year and I think those are the same ones I ordered 2 yrs ago.

Thanks,
Karl

Karl,

The code you provided brings in the basic Airpax breakers without little slip-on screw connectors. These are fine if you are replacing one because you can reuse the screw connectors. The problem is new breakers you may add to the harness. Airpax have weak plastic barrels which are prone to snap off. Attaching or detaching the female push on connections should be done when the breaker is off the panel. Using the screw adaptors requires less pressure on the switch barrel and is better for maintenance and allows attaching more than one wire. I talked to the Poco sales guy. He told me I needed to use the "S" designation. He said he would see about getting me the adaptors but I haven't heard from him and I have to move on.

West has slip on adaptors that replace one male connector with two (5 for $4). I will make drill these out and make screw connectors out of them.

If I were rebuilding the panel from scratch I would use the Airpax Rockers with the rocker protection feature. These are screw mounted so they don't have the weak threaded plastic barrel. And they are not prone to accidental setting.

Ok! Thanks for the response. I think I'll order this week. Getting tired of using my little pocket screwdriver to engage whats left of the broken switches.

By the way, when you going to launch that 32??

-Karl