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welding a sheet over pitting?
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OffShoredreams
#1 Posted : Friday, May 02, 2008 6:30:47 AM(UTC)
OffShoredreams

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what will happen if you weld a sheet of aluminum over top of pits? If the pitting is from electrical problems? Heres the pictures of my Mari and most of the pitted areas! http://s277.photobucket....ums/kk61/OffShoreDreams/
Trying to sip wine on a beer budget......
32ft. resurrection eventually
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jralbert
#2 Posted : Friday, May 02, 2008 8:06:11 AM(UTC)
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Hate to be blunt but that is a mess. Who could have savaged that once beautiful boat so badly? Where do you plan to start first?
Joel Albert, Potomac MD
"Charlie B" - 1988 32' FBS
Twin 318's/FWC/16x15 nibral props
docked Deale, MD
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fastjeff
#4 Posted : Friday, May 02, 2008 8:22:18 AM(UTC)
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It can be done, but you're best move is to cut that section out and replace it. A good welder can do that for you easily.

Jeff
"...reality is not nearly as lovely as the world of Liberal Land. No wonder so many people want to go there." - Tom Sowell
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Ed
#7 Posted : Friday, May 02, 2008 8:33:17 AM(UTC)
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You can double up the skin if you have enough to work with.( I did ) Plan on lots of time and more money.
Mine wasn't as bad, but didn't trust the corroded skin. Also put new engines and transmissions in at the same time. Afraid to add it all up, but I know it was alot of money. Write back if you want more info on what I did and my research on paint, engines, transmissions, and a start of what it will cost you. Good luck!--Ed
BUSIA
32 foot, no flybridge, twin 350 (chevy) Crusaders, closed (freshwater) cooling, 1:1 Velvet drive transmissions.
Proud to be IBEW.
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NightMoves
#8 Posted : Friday, May 02, 2008 10:44:25 AM(UTC)
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How about grinding it with a stainless grinding brush and use an exopsy or j b weld????

Mike
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jsimanella
#10 Posted : Friday, May 02, 2008 4:26:01 PM(UTC)
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I think I just threw up, a little bit, in my mouth... :(

OUCH!!!

(Fix it once, fix it right)
--
1987 32 Sedan Bridge
Twin 360s, Rebuilt 2006
Modified/Original Electronic Ignition
Raw Water Cooled
Catawba Island, Ohio
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Bill
#11 Posted : Saturday, May 03, 2008 3:42:26 AM(UTC)
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Sick OMG & Holy Sh##!Pray
"ALUMINATION"
1975 Marinette 37' Fly Bridge Sedan
Twin Chrysler 360 cu in - 250 hp
Grosse MI - FYC
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OffShoredreams
#3 Posted : Saturday, May 03, 2008 4:07:24 AM(UTC)
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jralbert wrote:
Hate to be blunt but that is a mess. Who could have savaged that once beautiful boat so badly? Where do you plan to start first?
2 owners ago stripped out the inside.He said the marinette had termites.Then he sold it to a auotmechanic and he lived on the boat until he fell behind on slip rental...he took what was of any value before the repo happened.Now I have come along and am trying to raise the dead...unfortunately there is too much missing to put her back to original.Thats one reason I took the project! Design the interior the way I think works best for me. Wheelhouse? Nope kids bunkhouse! Bathtub? Yep when its done. It will be "special" LOL
Trying to sip wine on a beer budget......
32ft. resurrection eventually
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OffShoredreams
#9 Posted : Saturday, May 03, 2008 4:10:35 AM(UTC)
OffShoredreams

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NightMoves wrote:
How about grinding it with a stainless grinding brush and use an exopsy or j b weld????

Mike
I was thinking about the J B Weld its metalbased I wasnt sure if it would be "good"
Trying to sip wine on a beer budget......
32ft. resurrection eventually
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OffShoredreams
#5 Posted : Saturday, May 03, 2008 4:16:23 AM(UTC)
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Fastjeff wrote:
It can be done, but you're best move is to cut that section out and replace it. A good welder can do that for you easily.

Jeff
HMM lets see....double up the skin...cut a couple of holes out bring out the welder and have him weld in a few stringers and drop those I/O's right in! sounds like a heck of a plan eh? then I could add an additional 240gal of fuel...could hold right at 500 gals. give or take. I priced some used engines 3400.00 for both (chevy 305) 5400.00 for 2 complete I/O setups.
Trying to sip wine on a beer budget......
32ft. resurrection eventually
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Ed
#12 Posted : Saturday, May 03, 2008 11:44:37 AM(UTC)
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Might be something to consider, going to I/O setup. My guess isthe cost to beef up the transom isn't worth the trouble and if the new setup has the engines farther aft then the balance is all off. All the weight of fuel, engines, outdrives is in back with not much forward to make it ride level. I've found you have to question if it's even worth fixing it up, back to original, seems a lot of owners don't want to keep up with the normal stuff so it deteriates to a point of is it even worth fixing. For new engines and transmissions,( cheaper to buy new than rebuild I found ) I paid about $17,000.00 and that was just a start.--Ed
BUSIA
32 foot, no flybridge, twin 350 (chevy) Crusaders, closed (freshwater) cooling, 1:1 Velvet drive transmissions.
Proud to be IBEW.
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marinettejoe
#13 Posted : Sunday, May 04, 2008 4:42:30 AM(UTC)
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That kind of pitting needs a serious fix. Fix it once, right. At 75 an hour (in my expensive area) the welding would be cheaper that a epoxy/glass patch. Get a local boatyard that knows aluminum or a local T-top builder (in FL there is a lot of them).
Unzinced ships sink at slips. yep
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marinettejoe
#6 Posted : Sunday, May 04, 2008 4:46:02 AM(UTC)
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OffShoredreams wrote:
Fastjeff wrote:
It can be done, but you're best move is to cut that section out and replace it. A good welder can do that for you easily.

Jeff
HMM lets see....double up the skin...cut a couple of holes out bring out the welder and have him weld in a few stringers and drop those I/O's right in! sounds like a heck of a plan eh? then I could add an additional 240gal of fuel...could hold right at 500 gals. give or take. I priced some used engines 3400.00 for both (chevy 305) 5400.00 for 2 complete I/O setups.


Backyardboatyard did the outboard stoff to a Marinette in a video. I/O and Outboards may not be as cheap as one might expect. http://backyardboatyard.com/
Unzinced ships sink at slips. yep
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pfhlaw
#14 Posted : Monday, May 05, 2008 2:30:48 AM(UTC)
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Before I started with the hull fix I would try to determine what caused such aggressive corrosion. For example, corrosion near the shaft struts is usually caused by incorrect brass cutlass bearings or a non-isolated shaft at the transmission flange.
But your kind of corrosion at the bow is unusual. Was there some loose electrical wiring in the rope locker?
Peter
1981 32' sedan bridge
twin Chrysler 360 cu. in. 250 hp engines
Raw water cooled
Nimbus II
Home port: New Buffalo, MI
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jhall767
#15 Posted : Monday, May 05, 2008 5:38:06 AM(UTC)
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It's not much more work to cut out the metal and replace it instead of welding a patch on. If you do weld a patch on you will need to sandblast the old metal clean so that the corrosion doesn't keep on coming through. Also make sure that somebody didn't put a coat of copper based bottom paint on. If they did you'll need to blast the entire hull. Small pits can be filled using a TIG welder. Its just a question of when it becomes less work to re-plate.

John
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OffShoredreams
#16 Posted : Wednesday, May 07, 2008 5:55:17 AM(UTC)
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I did alittle bit of investigating knocking off the bottom paint/epoxy....the corrosion is through the transom! They just coated it with that bottom job. I havent taken the trim tab off yet but I am expecting more bad news. The worse corrosion is the transom bottom/chine and the swim platform supports...the supports are ate through as well. Thanks for that video clip that was awsome! Oh yeah when I bought the Marinette they told me after it was out of the water that it hadnt had a bottom job for 10 years!
Trying to sip wine on a beer budget......
32ft. resurrection eventually
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Preldor
#17 Posted : Tuesday, June 03, 2008 3:23:06 AM(UTC)
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I am a certified welder with extensive experience repairing aluminum and steel hulled vessels, commercial and pleasure. (AWS, ASME, Mil-standards in Stick, Tig, and Mig) USCG regs require the removal and replacement of plate exceeding pitting and corrosion standards for good reason. You are trusting your boat to bring you home! Overplating and J-B weld repairs may work for a temp patch, but should NEVER be relied upon for long term boat usage. If you have any say in the choice of welders making the repairs, look for one who is certified to either USCG or AWS D1.2 structural aluminum/mig codes. The optimum equipment to be used is Pulsed Mig. (This introduces the least amount of heat into the heat affected zone resulting in less brittleness and warpage of the welded areas.) Another consideration is the metalurgical knowledge of the welder. He should understand the composition to the existing hull plate, replacement materials, and any filler wire. Also be sure that any chill blocks used in the repair are not copper. Ceramic are the only acceptable ones for use on an aluminum hull. Any corners will have a radius to reduce stress. Considering that it appears as if you have stripped the interior of the boat and the weldor will have complete access to both sides of the weld areas, his job has been made easier and thus reduce the repair cost. Enjoy the ride!!

Preldor
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jhall767
#19 Posted : Tuesday, June 03, 2008 5:53:50 AM(UTC)
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Preldor do you have any bretheren up in Baltimore, MD or are you willing to travel. The last welder I used was pretty good but not knowledgeable in boats. Actually he probably was but the guys who did the work weren't.

John
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marinettejoe
#18 Posted : Tuesday, June 03, 2008 12:02:26 PM(UTC)
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Preldor wrote:

I am a certified welder with extensive experience repairing aluminum and steel hulled vessels, commercial and pleasure. (AWS, ASME, Mil-standards in Stick, Tig, and Mig) USCG regs require the removal and replacement of plate exceeding pitting and corrosion standards for good reason. You are trusting your boat to bring you home! Overplating and J-B weld repairs may work for a temp patch, but should NEVER be relied upon for long term boat usage. If you have any say in the choice of welders making the repairs, look for one who is certified to either USCG or AWS D1.2 structural aluminum/mig codes. The optimum equipment to be used is Pulsed Mig. (This introduces the least amount of heat into the heat affected zone resulting in less brittleness and warpage of the welded areas.) Another consideration is the metalurgical knowledge of the welder. He should understand the composition to the existing hull plate, replacement materials, and any filler wire. Also be sure that any chill blocks used in the repair are not copper. Ceramic are the only acceptable ones for use on an aluminum hull. Any corners will have a radius to reduce stress. Considering that it appears as if you have stripped the interior of the boat and the weldor will have complete access to both sides of the weld areas, his job has been made easier and thus reduce the repair cost. Enjoy the ride!!

Preldor


Do you do work in VA?
Unzinced ships sink at slips. yep
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dougrose
#20 Posted : Wednesday, June 04, 2008 1:57:29 AM(UTC)
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Please don't take this the wrong way, everybody, but I am always surprised at the low prices for Marinettes on the used market. I got mine for about the price of the used engines alone. You are talking about thousands of dollars in work just to get to the point of putting new engines in, which will cost many thousands more. An older freshwater Marinette might well cost less. With high gas prices, it is a good time to buy. And you would have a boat ready to go.

If this is a labor of love, and we all understand, then OK, we wish you the best. You will find more help on this forum than you would believe, guys who know what they are talking about who are happy to spend time explaining it to dummies like us. But you might do better starting with a sound hull, engines, and interior..... and I would like to see you out there in the Indian River some day....




1975 32' Flybridge Sedan, twin Perkins 6-354 diesels, 1:1.53 velvetdrives, 16 X 19 props. Merritt Island, Florida
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