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Could you put a Tee on the oil pressure switch? If so you could install a second switch for the hour meter.

Cort

The oil pressure switch is eather open or closed. When open it will not run either alarm or hour meter. when closed it will run both. The switch closes giving a ground to complete the circuit for your alarm. When oil pressure is up the switch is open your hour meter will have an open circuit, no ground so it will not regester while your engine is running. You need a switch that will close when the oil pressure is up. If you could find a switch that has an open and closed output it would work. Hope this helps let me know how it goes.

Cort

Just a thought (my boat is completely different) but isn't there also an overtemp switch that is wired in too?

The generic wiring schematic at http://www.geocities.com/dougmrose/Marinette_Wiring/Marinette_Wiring_Generic.pdf shows the two alarm switches in series, and opening either one should open the circuit to the alarm, causing it to sound.

This would mean that the oil pressure switch would need to be normally open, and would close when there is oil pressure, while the overtemperature switch would be closed when the engine is cool or normal, and open when the temperature is too high.

IF this is so, then wiring across the oil pressure switch would record the hours that the engine is not running. The LCD counter would have to be wired from ignition to the hot side of the oil pressure switch, so that it will record hours while the oil pressure switch is closed.

Or, maybe it's the wrong schematic. What does that Rose guy know, anyway?

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"Anyone who has ever chanted "drill, baby, drill" please report to the bayou for cleanup duty..."

The generic Marinette schematic was furnished to me by another member -- I simply drew it up and stuck it on the web, so I cannot vouch for the circuit. My boat had no wires...

Generally, alarm systems use either series or parallel circuits, and the sensors are either normally closed, or normally open, respectively. "Normally" means the "no alarm" condition.

Series circuits have the huge advantage that they sound the alarm if any wire connection is broken. That is what the schematic shows, perhaps others will weigh in to correct it based on their own boats.

Parallel circuits, like the one I use, can use alarm switches that are connected to ground. I went that route because the engines came with normally open "one terminal" switches. Nothing in mine is stock Marinette.

You are quite correct, the alarm horn needs to be a three-terminal device. I drew it to the old Marinette schematic, but there must be a ground on it somewhere. Sometimes these things are informal -- grounded thru the panel or whatever.

Please, all, send me your schematics along with the year of your boat, and I will post same and try to make some sense of it. Eventually, it would be great if a first owner could just look up the year of his boat and then download his schematics.... It would have saved me a lot of work if I had had something like this when I first started Marinetting.

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"Anyone who has ever chanted "drill, baby, drill" please report to the bayou for cleanup duty..."

Not sure if this is what you mean, but I separated my dual engine alarms, using a relay to quell the oil pressure switches. Works great! I keep the alarm switch on all the time now, and the buzzers only sound with the ignition on (before oil pressure comes up).

Why go to all that trouble? With gas prices the way they are, I intend to run on one engine a bunch this summer. The old alarm system does not allow that.

Jeff

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"There is another class of coloured people who make a business of keeping the troubles, the wrongs, and the hardships of the Negro race before the public. Having learned that they are able to make a living out of their troubles, they have grown into the settled habit of advertising their wrongs -- partly because they want sympathy and partly because it pays. Some of these people do not want the Negro to lose his grievances, because they do not want to lose their jobs." Booker T. Washington

I don't wish to mislead anybody with that schematic, so I will at least put a note on it. Could someone post or send me the alarm wiring the way it is supposed to be? Wouldn't hurt to put in Jeff's addition in dotted lines so others can make use of it....

As a matter of principle, there should be NO connections between the two engines, to keep the two engines independent and prevent single-point failures that might stop both engines. Sounds like Jeff has a method that does this.....

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"Anyone who has ever chanted "drill, baby, drill" please report to the bayou for cleanup duty..."