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balast resistor and ignitin module
halseyf
#1 Posted : Tuesday, August 05, 2008 12:29:21 PM(UTC)
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Guys
A few years ago I remember reading a post about how the balast resistor and/or the ignition modules on the Chryslers fail frequently. Is that correct? What is the purpose of these things and what could be done to upgrade and eliminate them. If there is a solution, what would it cost. For a few months when I switch my port ignition switch into the first (ON) postition I hear a humming. I do not hear this humming noise from the stbd engine. Does that mean these components are bad or going bad. My port engine shudders and can not get to full power. The choke looks good and I took down the fuel system, checked everything and put it back. Any input would be helpful

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sauconyjim
#2 Posted : Tuesday, August 05, 2008 1:11:35 PM(UTC)
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Heres my 2 cents. Have a 91 32 sedan fb and would run great then just shut off. Wait 5 minutes start right up run for 15 and shut down. Sometimes run fine but trick was you could never count on either engine and it would happen at the worst of times. Finally decided to bite the bullet and changed to a total MSD ignition sytem and coil and scrapped entire original ballast and chrysler system. That was 1 1/2 years ago and neither engine has given me one second of trouble since. In my opinion it is the weak link on the Chryslers not enough consitent and powerful spark. Not a problem with the MSD system. They aren't cheap but you also arent broke down. Try Summitt racing they have the marine unit don't cheat and use the automotive version
dougrose
#3 Posted : Wednesday, August 06, 2008 2:37:47 AM(UTC)
dougrose

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The ballast resistor is there to prevent the coil from burning out when the engine is off but the ignition is on and the points are closed, if I remember correctly. This allows better spark at high speeds. FastJeff says you can substitute a true 12V coil that doesn't need a resistor.

The ballast resistor is of shockingly low quality. Perhaps the cheapest fix might be to use an industrial resistor of a few ohms (FastJeff would know how much) and then solder all the connections in the ignition primary circuit, from the battery to the ignition switch and down to the resistor and coil. Of course, I mean solder the lugs on, not solder directly to the threaded studs on the coil! The original Marinette wire is untinned, so wire ends need to be scraped and tinned before putting on the lugs.

I used a 50 watt resistor from Mouser 284-HS50-4.0F (http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=oJqWk0A1%252bW2gMhIbQgUY5Q%3d%3d) or something similar, mounted it on a piece of aluminum on the firewall. These are something like $5.

I don't know if it is needed, but I always run a ground wire from the point plate back to the block/battery return to ensure a good return connection and not trust oiled metal surfaces.

I did this to a boat (not a Marinette) once and it became reliable. I never found out which connection was marginal.


1975 32' Flybridge Sedan, twin Perkins 6-354 diesels, 1:1.53 velvetdrives, 16 X 19 props. Merritt Island, Florida
fastjeff
#4 Posted : Sunday, August 10, 2008 4:30:17 AM(UTC)
fastjeff

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That ballast resistor nonsense is a holdover from the '70s. The coil runs on about 9 volts normally, through the resistror, but gets a full 12 volts for starting (via the starter solenoid). You can replace the 9 volt coil with a "normal" one and jumper across the ballast resistor to send a full 12 volts to the replacement coil all the time.

By the way, these modern "flame thrower" coils really put out a spark!

Jeff

PS: I hear the ballast resistors make a nice splash!
"...reality is not nearly as lovely as the world of Liberal Land. No wonder so many people want to go there." - Tom Sowell

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