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OK , I have a 32 ft sedan, I am the one the boat got hit by lighning and caught fire the next day.
Anyway to the point, My mechanic and insurance company BOAT US are replaceing the rudders also.
I ordered new ones from John (MARINETTE).
I told my mecahnic that they would Stainless and would not need to be painted.
He was concerned about how to bond these in.... anybody have stainless rudders and have a problem with bonding???
Thats all I lack is the rudders and then the boat is back in the water....
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The rudders have their own zincs and should be isolated.
John
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I passed that along to my mechanic. Thanks.
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I am probably out of my league here but I think the shaft for the rudders has an isolating bearing just like the prop shafts. (Yes?) Joel Albert, Potomac MD
"Charlie B" - 1988 32' FBS
Twin 318's/FWC/16x15 nibral props
docked Deale, MD
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YES!! Jeff "...reality is not nearly as lovely as the world of Liberal Land. No wonder so many people want to go there." - Tom Sowell
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Fastjeff wrote:YES!! Jeff So, that means Eddy that no "bonding" is required. After you install the new rudders with the proper insulated bearing, add the proper zincs to each rudder and you are back in # 1 shape. Joel Albert, Potomac MD
"Charlie B" - 1988 32' FBS
Twin 318's/FWC/16x15 nibral props
docked Deale, MD
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right after seeing them , I got them today ,
your correct.
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Don't drop the new bushing(s) in the bilge or you'll never find them again. (Don't ask!) I have a set of loaner tools to make that job easier if you need them. See the Repair Website for details. Jeff "...reality is not nearly as lovely as the world of Liberal Land. No wonder so many people want to go there." - Tom Sowell
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Thanks I appreciate the offer, but my mechanic I would think would have that stuff.
I just need to paint them and let them dry over the weekend so he can install next week.
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I installed SS rudders several years ago, I just put an anode back on rudder as before. I did get a new stuffing box as old one was plastic,
new one was bronz. I do not think mine is Isolated as it is connected to steering cable. I could isolate it useing isolation washers and a smaller bolt. I have had no problem other than a low voltage on hull.
I wonder if this could be the source of low voltage. I have always had low voltage but no problem with corosion. By low voltage I mean
.6 volts Despite what every one says 1.0 is correct I have never got it higher even with adding Magnessium anodes. That gives me an idea I could pull the pins on rudders and see if reading changes. On my old rudder shafts it was pitted badly under packing seal causeing leaks under way but not at rest. Any ideas on low readings
SICK LEAVE, Bob
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Rudder bushings should be rubber, there should also be an insulating bushing between rudder shaft and steer arms. At least that's how my is. Roger Sea Jay
1983 37 double cabin, twin 230hp Volvo diesels, twin disk 1.5-1 20X 23 4 blade props
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Never had a rubber bushing, at least not since I had the boat.
SICK LEAVE, Bob
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