|Check out Marinette, Inc for anodes
and other tips.|
|Join a local yacht or boating club|
|Buy the factory service manual and engine parts manual for your
|Use a Sharpie marker to write down the size of the (7/8's?) wrench for the
drain plug on the cover to the bilge. Do the same for the socket to tighten
water pump belts, and any other critical sizes. |
|JOE3656 >> Avoid car battery chargers. There's
generally no isolation between the ac and dc windings or the circuit is a
step down bridge. This can put A.C. and shore D.C. in the boat's ground.
Plugging them directly into shore power is far worse, since you avoid the
galvanic isolator. (Check your Capac!). Conceivably you can disconnect
a battery from the system and charge it directly, but it's better to buy a
marine charger. |
|JOE3656 >> I'm told to Avoid inner tube
rubber, Rubber contains carbon or graphite powders, which will cause
galvanic corrosion (it's very cathodic).|
|Denis MY_WAY>> |
I think your doing a great job as I have never seen so many on this site.
For Marinette owners I have a good tip you mite like for
air, for air horns cheaply done.
I went to a junk yard and found out that Cadillac have air
pumps for air shock system under the hood. Because it is near the motor and
gas it is explosion proof and great for marine use. Two cost me $20.00 but I
I got to small air tanks and mounted two air pumps under
my deck and power my two sets of air horns, I also put a quick connect and a
air coil hose with air blower and tire inflator end, I can air the toys. I
also aired a tire on my trailer one time when it was low at the lake.
One other thing I did was put bait well timers on my
blowers and when you turn the batteries on, it starts the bilge blowers and
they run 15 min. and off 15 min. Or you can set to run all the time, so no
chance of not running them before you start up your engines. Just a safer
way to run your blowers in your bilge...
Just wanted to add this info with the hope it will be
Denis >>>>>> MY WAY
|JOE 3656>> A small amount of Screwgrab or grinding
compound on the end of the screwdriver keeps the screwdriver from stripping
the slot. You can get it from http://www.right-tool.com/screwgrab.html.|
|JOE 3656 >> Plan and budget the repairs with a
written priority list (from the last survey?), from safety, floatability,
engines, cabin leaks, and usability on down to looks. Looks come last, no
matter what. Post a copy of the list (without prices) where the spouse can
|JOE 3656 >> All Stainless steel is not the same, Marine Stainless is
series 300 stainless (especially 316). It makes a difference. |
|JOE 3656 >> Double clamp all hoses. Check all clamps EVERY YEAR.|
|JOE 3656 >> Clean up steel, brass, and stainless steel screws
and scrap if
they fall into the bilge. |
|JALTHOUSE1 >> Do not use any kind of anti-seize on the shaft. The system depends on the taperlock that develops between the shaft and hub to transmit the torque of the engine to the prop/water. By using
anti-seize the taperlock does not develop and all of the torque is transmitted by the key. This results on extremely high stress on the keyway of the shaft and a high probability of failure of the shaft at the forward end of the keyway.
I worked as a design engineer at Michigan Wheel for 5 years and to my knowledge there is no torque specs for propeller nuts. To double check I looked at my copy of the SAE spec for propeller shafts and hubs and a torque spec was not listed there. General
installation procedure is to drive the prop on the shaft with the wide nut
(as tight as you can get it), back off the big nut, put the skinny nut on as tight as you can get it. Put the wide nut back on as tight as you can get it and put the cotter pin in. |
Unfortunately props are a bugger to get off, but that just means they are doing exactly what they are supposed to do, a necessary evil.
|DEBAL >> Just had my boat surveyed last year (2000)
and they had me replace both of my bilge pump hoses, but on reinstallation
they made me run both lines all the way up to the deck and then down again
to the outlets. This way they can't back siphon into the boat. |
|DEBAL >> They also suggested replacing my bilge pump
switches so that they are manual and auto only with no "OFF"
|DEBAL >> One more important issue was to make sure
that the copper fuel lines were totally isolated from the hull. I used clear
tygon tubing to do that. This was done by the Boat U.S. insurance surveyor
|JOE3656 >> Marine Polyurethane caulk (3M 5200) lasts
longest for me. |
|Fishnatic >>Install a cotter pin in the rudder shaft
to act as a backup to keep from losing a rudder. One member lost the rudder
on their 28 single a few years ago.
|JOE3656 >> 3M Scotchgard sprayed around caulking can
keep micro leaks from letting in water. |
|FastJeff >>Finally, the Marinette rain gutters in the
back, just above the air scoops, tend to flood the beejeebers out of the
cockpit area--water roars out of them and onto the cockpit floor. Knowing
the proclivity of the cockpit floor to rot out, we had an awning made that
covers the cockpit, but these dumb rain gutters were still pouring water
onto the cockit floor. My solution was to silicone shut the aft ends of the
rain gutters, then drill a bunch of 1/4 " holes in the bottom near the
ends to allow the water to run down onto the deck instead. Worked slick--and
I did it during the rain storm! (Ed Note You have to keep cleaning them.)|
|FastJeff and JRALBERT >> Re replacing windows. In the
rear, behind that diagonal brace, the entire track has to be pulled forward
and out to get any of the windows/ screen out (or back in). (Same is true
for forward windows, ED). By the way, removing the teak does nothing at all
(as you will see).
|FastJeff >> If you have a sedan, then you've undoubtedly
had the windshield windows come crashing down on you when you loosened up
the clamp nut a bit too much. Pow! After a few times this happened, I
decided to eliminate this nonsense once and for all. The solution was ultra
simple: A rubber washer, followed by a large flat washer, then the hand nut.
The windows now slide slowly down in a controlled fashion, braked by the
friction of the rubber, instead of trying to guillotine one's fingers.|
|Fast Jeff >> My '85 Sedan had terrible set of sloppy
throttles. (These are the Morse controls that have the throttle and shift
located together.) The slop in the starboard throttle made synching the
motors a darn ballet act! The cure was super simple: First, back off the
tension adjuster (so it won't trick you). Next, using a long, 1/4 inch drill
bit, drill a hole through the pivot of the rocker arm (that looks like a
see-saw). There's already a partially cored, 1/4 inch hole there on each
side, so use it as a guide. Drill from BOTH sides (for accuracy) then run
the drill bit all the way through. Next, using a 1/4 inch bolt 3 inches long
and a lock nut, bolt the assembly tightly together to eliminate all that frustrating
slop. The bolt needs to be tightened fairly tight, but not so tight that you
bind things up. You'll need to experiment until you get it right. Finally,
to get the friction you want in the throttle motion, tighten/ loosen the
friction lock bolt (7/16 inch open end).|
|Steam Heat - I am told by reliable sources that the low
cost steam cleaners (Steam Blaster) are a great way to remove stuck on masking
tape. Also I am told that remove gunk from parts to be painted. I plan
to try it on the infamous Marinette Bilge Goo. |
|From Fast Jeff >> Lubricating a cable? You could try
a little trick I used with motorcycles: Slip a rubber tube over the stationary
part of the cable and clamp it tightly with a couple of hose clamps. The other
end of the hose goes to the bottom of a vertical tank (which can be cobbled
together from water pipe and fittings). Fill this tank with thin oil and add
compressed air to the top. Let it sit overnight, with pressure on it, and the
oil will be forced through the length of the cable. Working the cable back and
forth now and then helps.
|JOE3656 Use Kroil Oil in cables - from gun shops
|From Sick Leave on stuffing boxes|
I have always used a large channel locks (fits every thing). Here is a trick
used by a marine mechanic, it is called a brass or bronze hammer. You use
hammer to tighten or loosen packing glands. Just hit corner of flat in
direction you want to go, saves knuckles. Because hammer is softer that nut it
will not hurt it. SICK LEAVE, Bob
|DocSnow1 and Fast Jeff each made his own ...
|Try Pump Wrenches instead... see these
articles from an alberg or try MSC
|From Killerd222 Found this on the web
about nicb.org free search. Thought it might be of interest.
According to NASBLA (National Association of State Boating Law Administrators)
damaged, even "salvage" boats, resulting from the 2005 Hurricanes, Katrina and
Rita, are showing up on the market and they warn boat "buyers beware".
So, they say, if the deal sounds too good to be true, it probably is and take
precautions to be sure you know what you're buying. The National Insurance
Crime Bureau (NICB) has a database of 206,000 boats and motor vehicles damaged
by these two hurricanes. They say, damaged boats can be cleaned up and sold as
"used" by unscrupulous people. If you're in the market for a "real"
deal on a used boat, be sure to check the database at
www.nicb.org and enter the
HIN number of the boat in question to see its real history.
Got a tip? send it in...